Jeju Island was much bigger than we expected and we were lucky to have Victor show us some of its treasures. We saw the sights that draw crowds: waterfalls, Sunrise Peak, lava tubes, a traditional folk village. But the experiences I will remember most were a little off the beaten path: climbing into a dramatic gorge created long ago by molten lava; walking past hundreds of tiny gold statues lining the walls of a massive Buddhist temple; sipping tea on a tea plantation overlooking the seashore. Thank you, Victor, for showing us Jeju. And thanks again for climbing 10 metres into that gorge to fetch my 9-year-old son's sneaker!